Kaiseki is Japan's formal multi-course dining tradition, and Kyoto — drawing on its history as the imperial capital, its temple cuisine (shōjin ryōri), and its tea-ceremony culture — is widely considered its spiritual home. A good kaiseki meal is as much about seasonality and presentation as any single dish.
Two lineages, one word
The term covers two related traditions: cha-kaiseki, the simple, light meal originally served before a tea ceremony to prepare the palate, and the more elaborate kaiseki ryōri served at restaurants and ryokan today, which grew out of it into a longer, more formal sequence. When people talk about "having kaiseki" in a Kyoto restaurant, they generally mean the latter.
How a course sequence typically works
A full kaiseki meal moves through a sequence of small, distinct courses rather than one large plate — typically opening with a light appetiser, moving through soup, sashimi, a grilled dish, a simmered dish, and on through further courses before closing with rice, pickles, and a seasonal dessert. The exact structure varies by restaurant and season; the constant is that each course is small, deliberate, and tied to what's in season right now (the concept of shun).
Booking
Reservations are usually required well ahead, particularly for well-known restaurants, and some of the most traditional establishments only take bookings through an existing introduction or via your ryokan concierge — a longstanding practice, not a snub to visitors specifically. Hotel and ryokan concierges are often the most reliable way in if a restaurant's own booking channel is unclear.
Etiquette basics
Pace yourself to the courses rather than rushing — the sequence and timing are deliberate. It's fine to ask about unfamiliar ingredients or preparation; most kaiseki restaurants expect and welcome the question, especially from first-time guests.